What's on the menu?

The importance of historical menus as research tools and the William Angliss Institute's Collection
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What’s the oldest menu in your kitchen junk drawer? Is it just a dusty relic or a hidden gem just waiting to spark memories and cravings for old favourites.

The earliest known item resembling a menu comes from Assyria around 879 BC. This document, known as the "Banquet Stele," details the dishes served at a feast hosted by King Ashurnasirpal II. However, it's more of a historical list of foods presented at the banquet rather than a menu in the modern sense. Rather, menus as we think of them are often linked to China and France in the 12th and 18th century. 

During the early 12th century in China, during the Song Dynasty, menus started resembling what we're familiar with today. These menus became a common sight, in eateries frequented by travelers, showcasing the cuisine on offer. This period also marked the introduction of table service, along with unique features like singing waiters and ratings displayed outside establishments using flags. For instance, eateries offering a limited selection of dishes would have one flag, while sit-down eateries with a menu had at least two. The highest-rated eateries, offering a variety of dishes, proudly displayed five stars.

However, it wasn't until the 18th century that the modern menu as we know it really took shape. Before this period, restaurants and eateries were often associated with travellers or the less affluent. Wealthier individuals would typically travel with their own provisions and servants or dine in the homes of friends, reflecting a lack of high regard for the practice of dining out in general.

In the 18th and 19th centuries however, restaurants began offering patrons the option to choose their dishes from a list or menu, departing from the traditional set meals. This shift coincided with the change in dining habits along with a saw a shift in perception, as people started dining out in their own towns. Fine dining began to emerge as a symbol of celebration or indulgence, marking a departure from the previous notion that dining out was solely for travellers or the lower classes. This transformation contributed to the elevation of the overall dining experience and the emergence of restaurants as esteemed establishments.

In the Goldfields, "John Alloo’s Chinese restaurant" was a bustling hub for the diggers of Ballarat, as captured in S.T. Gill’s iconic sketch from 1853. Owned by Chin Thum Lok, who likely arrived in Australia from the Guandong province as an indentured laborer, this eatery left a mark on the culinary landscape of the time.

While specific menus from this establishment aren't available, historical records tell us that "John Alloo's" was renowned for its slogan, "Soups always ready," and it offered a variety of dishes, including plum puddings, jam tarts, and hearty roasted and boiled joints of meat, accompanied by an assortment of vegetables.

John Alloo's Chinese restaurant, Main Road, Ballaarat, 1853
F.W. Niven & Co, 'John Alloo's Chinese restaurant, Main Road, Ballaarat, 1853', trove.nla.gov.au/work/10348697

A few decades later and a 120 kilometers away in 1887 A. Aitken, Esq., President of The Fitzroy Bowling Green hosted a banquet held in honor of visiting players from the Malmsbury Bowlers which consisted of multiple courses. The similarities and differences in food tells a story of early Victoria.

Banquet menu given By A. Aitken, Esq., President of The Fitzroy Bowling Green, In Honor of The Visit Of The Malmsbury Bowlers, 1887
'Banquet Given By A. Aitken, Esq., President of The Fitzroy Bowling Green, In Honor of The Visit Of The Malmsbury Bowlers', 1887, trove.nla.gov.au/work/228162453
Banquet menu Given By A. Aitken, Esq., President of The Fitzroy Bowling Green, In Honor of The Visit Of The Malmsbury Bowlers, 1887
'Banquet Given By A. Aitken, Esq., President of The Fitzroy Bowling Green, In Honor of The Visit Of The Malmsbury Bowlers', 1887, trove.nla.gov.au/work/228162453

So menus serve as invaluable historical resources, offering insights into not just individual dining experiences but also broader societal trends and economic shifts. They weave together a narrative that reflects what people ate, the ingredients available, and how prices fluctuated over time. For instance, the rising cost of potatoes from the 1970s to 2020 going from a average of 45c a kg in the 1970's to $2.35 in 2020 highlights the impact of inflation and changes in agricultural practices on the dining landscape. This, in turn, affects the overall cost of meals and may prompt restaurants to innovate or modify dishes to accommodate changing ingredient prices as seen in menus of the time.

Moreover, menus shed light on dining preferences, social dynamics, and cultural norms. They reveal who frequented certain establishments and what was considered fashionable or trendy at the time. Differences between chain restaurants, local diners, and high-end establishments showcase the diversity of dining options and cater to various consumer preferences. Comparing menus from different locations also offers insights into regional culinary traditions and the availability of ingredients.

Additionally, menus may provide a glimpse into dining experiences beyond everyday meals, such as holidays or special occasions. Whether dining at a theme park, on a cruise ship, or during air travel, menus reflect the unique dining environments and offerings tailored to specific settings. Contrasting these with local establishments or historical cookbooks allows for a deeper understanding of changing culinary landscapes and consumer behaviours over time.

Qantas Menu showing a list of available food from the 1970's.
'Qantas Menu: [airline menu]', [197-?], from the William Angliss Institute, trove.nla.gov.au/work/238384100

In essence, menus serve as more than just lists of dishes; they reveal the intricacies of food culture, economics, and social dynamics that shape our culinary experiences.

They can also be used to give further understanding of events. The mention of a H. Greville Caterer receiving praise for catering the Perth Racing Carnival in a 1913 article may raise curiosity about the what actually was served at the event. 

Newspaper text
'Perth Racing Carnival' 2 January 1913, The West Australian, trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/26863434

While a specific menu from that occasion is unavailable, a later menu from 1920 offers a glimpse into the offerings provided by H. Greville. Notably, items like Raised Pigeon Pie featured prominently on the menu, showcasing the fare of the time. Examining such menus, along with articles detailing recipes and culinary practices of the era, provides valuable insights into catering trends and taste preferences during the mid-1910s to 1920s. 

Menu from H. Greville Caterer 1920's : [menu].
'Menu from H. Greville Caterer', 1920's, trove.nla.gov.au/work/228162433

Considering whether these dishes would be served today prompts reflection on how tastes and dining preferences have evolved over time. While some traditional dishes may still find favor among modern diners, others may have fallen out of fashion or undergone reinterpretation to suit contemporary palates and dietary preferences.

Exploring historical menus and culinary records not only offers a fascinating glimpse into the past but also enriches our understanding of how food culture has evolved and continues to shape our dining experiences today.

They offer a unique glimpse the transformation of taste in a country, a town and a people. As well as insights into different areas, classed, races, wealth, immigration and identity. The culture or society of the time.  

After all, is there a difference between Chicken schnitzel versus Pariser schnitzel versus Jims' Snitz? And if there isn't what does the different names say about the expected customer's taste and life.

If you want to take your own look into the fascinating world of menus Trove has a number of them searchable and fully digitised available online including a remarkable collection from the William Angliss Institute Library, a Trove Partner and Australia’s largest specialist centre for Foods, Tourism, Hospitality and Events Education and Training.

The Institute's collection spans menus from cruise ships, clubs, restaurants, bars, and hotels, providing a fascinating glimpse into Australia's evolving culinary landscape from the 1800's to the present.

They have also recently updated their website making searching and exploring these menus easier then ever. Whether you're searching for a specific menu or simply curious about historical dining experiences, the William Angliss Institute's collection on Trove offers a wealth of valuable insights into Australian culture, gastronomy, and hospitality.

So, dive into the digital archives, embark on a culinary journey through time, and discover the flavors of Australia's past waiting to be savored anew.